It had been a taxing post-holiday week and the refrigerator prospects were uninspiring.
So the question was proposed, and heartily endorsed: “Country Spirit?”
The Henniker (“the only Henniker on Earth”) eatery has long been our go-to place, for its warm, welcoming atmosphere and well-prepared food. Elevated comfort food is probably the best way to describe what the chef pulls off, time and again.
And with snow in the forecast and a busy weekend ahead, it was just the ticket late on a Friday evening.
We had made reservations, so there was barely a five-minute wait for a table. The entryway to Country Spirit is a great place to spend a few minutes, with displays of locally made products available for purchase including mustard, herb blends, maple syrup and candles.
To the left is the bustling bar, where locals and folks coming off the slopes at nearby Pats Peak gather for food and drinks in cheerful camaraderie. If you look up, you’ll see hundreds of crimped dollar bills are adhered to the ceiling.
We were escorted to a cozy booth in the dining room, where the wooden tables and booths were all still occupied despite the late hour. The vibe is New England rustic, with barnboard walls and exposed-beam ceilings adorned with mismatched antique light fixtures.
On this night, there was a happy buzz in the room — perhaps in anticipation of the coming snowstorm — as families, groups of friends and couples all seemed to be enjoying each other’s company and their meals.
High screens atop the walls of the booths afford a feeling of privacy and soften the noise.
The Carnivore ordered a white Russian. I chose jasmine green tea to fight a persistent cold, and it hit the spot.
There’s something for everyone on the menu, including burgers, sandwiches, pasta, seafood and meat dishes — notably prime rib on Friday and Saturday evenings.
To start, we couldn’t resist a perennial favorite, spinach artichoke dip ($11.95), served with corn chips and vegetables for dipping. And here our server Makenzie quickly earned bonus points, returning from the kitchen to warn this pescatarian with celiac that the chips were not gluten-free.
The dip came piping hot and the kitchen had provided plenty of large celery and carrot sticks. The vegetables were crisp and fresh, and I didn’t even miss the chips.
We agreed that the dip, oozing cheese and redolent of garlic, was the best version of this classic we’ve ever had.
Country Spirit’s beef stroganoff warms a cold winter evening.
The Carnivore chose one of the evening’s specials, beef stroganoff ($19.95) — when’s the last time you saw that on a menu? I ordered the “Salmon Your Way” from the regular menu ($24.95), choosing the lemon dill sauce over pan-seared blackened Cajun.
Entrees are served with a choice of rice, baked potato or fries. They also come with a side salad, always appreciated by this diner, and the dressings are house-made and tasty. With just the right portions of green-leaf lettuce, diced cucumbers and tomatoes, and shredded carrots, it was a perfect palate cleanser after the rich dip.
Makenzie remembered to leave the croutons off mine — more bonus points.
The Carnivore was delighted with his choice — the tender beef in a creamy mushroom sauce, served over egg noodles. It was a throwback dish that stirred up happy memories of childhood.
Country Spirit’s “Salmon Your Way” — this way, with lemon dill sauce.
My salmon was cooked to perfection, and the accompanying baked potato and butternut squash made for the perfect winter meal. The sauce, with fresh dill and lemon, was delicious, and I couldn’t resist dipping bites of baked potato in it to sop up the rest.
We had looked forward to the evening’s gelato special — chocolate raspberry, but alas, it was already gone, so the Carnivore valiantly agreed to try the cookies and cream gelato instead as I watched with some jealousy. It happily turned out to be an adult version of the popular flavor — “not too many cookies,” he declared.
I took home a slice of the gluten-free chocolate cake — “more like fudge,” Makenzie accurately explained. It proved a tasty treat the next day.
The bill came to $83 before tax and tip.
We plan to return soon to Country Spirit for Sunday brunch. And during nicer weather, there’s outdoor seating, with cleverly placed window boxes to make you forget you’re overlooking the parking lot.
On a cold winter’s night, we needed warmth and comfort — and we found both at Country Spirit.
Country Spirit 262 Maple St., Henniker, 603-428-7007; hennikercountryspirit.com. Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday 4 to 8:30 p.m.; Thursday, Friday and Saturday, noon to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (brunch served from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sunday). Closed Mondays. Reservations for indoor dining are strongly recommended. {related_content_uuid}48d5f083-5bf9-4335-8d22-d793aa4de633{/related_content_uuid}
Scores for Country Spirit Atmosphere: 19/20 Menu: 18/20 Food: 18/20 Value; 19/20 Service: 18/20 Total: 92/100 {related_content_uuid}32f79470-46f3-402b-84b0-71990115b73b{/related_content_uuid}
