The Pelletier brothers have been in the Mexican restaurant business for nearly 40 years.
When they opened a Margaritas in a former Bonanza Steak House on Route 1 in Portsmouth (there are now 25 locations in six states — eight in New Hampshire), we started taking our toddlers there. Last month we went with a grandchild.
We hadn’t visited the restaurant since COVID, and were pleased with the new living-room style seating and streamlined decor (the Pelletiers have been traveling to central Mexico since 1985 to buy artwork, tile and furniture for their restaurants).
The menu is also streamlined, which overall is a good thing, though we felt the loss of our favorite Margaritas appetizer, the crispy beef taquito — also known as a rolled taco or flauta.
But we really came for the margaritas. Our go-to is the 16-ounce house version, on the rocks, with salt.
“It’s so fresh,” my dining companion said. “Lots of lime juice, the perfect balance of tart and sweet.” At $8.75, it’s a bargain.
The margarita menu takes up four pages, with options ranging from classic flavors of strawberry, mango or peach to “fancy margs” such as Blood and Smoke ($15). It is described as having a “smoky twist” from Xicaru Mezcal and Hornitos Reposado, with a squeeze of blood orange.
Fortunately, our grandchild was happy with the Shirley Temple soft drink on offer with a kids’ meal of chicken fingers and fries.
The adults started with the complimentary chips and salsa.
“Vinegar-based, with enough heat,” my dining partner said of the salsa. “Definitely homemade.”
The Loaded Skillet Nachos ($15.50) were at the top of the menu and seemed a natural choice.
It was more than enough for the two of us — a heaping portion of house-fried chips with refried beans, double layers of meat (we asked for half-chicken, half-beef), lots of melted cheese (Jack and Cheddar), onions and jalapenos. It’s topped with big dollops of salsa fresca, guacamole and sour cream.
A plate and fork are required to eat these nachos.
We decided to return last week to try a couple of other things on the menu.
Our servers at both visits were young, enthusiastic and efficient.
When we asked again about the lack of taquitos on the appetizer menu, our query got a hopeful response: “A lot of people are still ask for the taquitos — maybe they’ll bring them back,” the waitperson said.
I was in the mood for something snacky, so it was the Charred Jerk Wings for me ($13.75). There were four each of the flats and drums. The dry rub on the wings was just spicy enough to complement the char from the grill.
My dining companion considered the tacos (he’s a crunchy taco guy) and the steak fajitas as well as the Burrito Supreme.
After a lengthy discussion with our server, he opted for the Steak Chimichanga ($18.50) — seasoned sirloin and refried beans rolled in a lightly fried flour tortilla. The menu described it as being “baked in queso.”
He loves cheese sauce, but wondered aloud if it would make the chimi soggy.
“You can have the queso on the side,” our server suggested. So he did.
The crispy chimi, topped in salsa fresca, covered a Fiesta-ware plate. It was accompanied by Mexican rice.
Cut in quarters, the chimi was just the right size to dip in the queso sauce and salsa fresca.
Snack heaven.
Now if they only bring back the taquito...
Margaritas Mexican Restaurant 775 Lafayette Road, Portsmouth; 603-431-5828; www.margs.com. Cuisine: Mexican. Hours: Sunday, noon to midnight; Tuesday and Wednesday, 3 p.m. to midnight; Thursday and Friday, 3 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Saturday, noon to 1 a.m. Pricing: Appetizers, $8.50-$15.50; dinner, $12.50-$20.50; salads, $14.75-$17.50.
Scores for Margaritas Atmosphere: 17/20 Menu: 15/20 Food: 17/20 Service: 18/20 Value: 18/20 Total: 85/100 {related_content_uuid}74df6827-1ccb-4ba9-a662-b267383657d6{/related_content_uuid}